EDITORIAL NOTES
Fashion Observations · Independent Designers
Notes on collections, designers and the ideas that shape fashion. The ongoing editorial series from an independent editor’s point of view.
STEVEN PASSARO
Familiar, Reconsidered
Editorial Notes · Independent Designers
What interests me about Steven Passaro is the way he takes garments we already know — the trench, the coat, the pieces we instinctively return to when a new season begins — and makes us look at them differently.
The familiarity is still there. But so is something far more sophisticated: architectural construction, unexpected volumes, layers that shift around the body, details that reveal themselves gradually.
For SS27, A Glimpse, these recognisable silhouettes become almost sculptural. There is the precision of an object you might want to observe as a piece of design, yet they never lose the feeling that they are clothes meant to be worn.
Perhaps that is what I like most — fashion that can feel like a piece of art, without becoming too precious for everyday life.
Something beautiful enough to admire, but still yours to wear.
Steven Passaro · SS27, A Glimpse
Creative Direction · @stevenpassaro
Photography · @sebastiengiraud_
Styling & Image Consultant · @paulinegrsjn
Images via Paris Fashion Week / FHCM
THOM BROWNE
The Art of Rules
Editorial Notes · Fashion Observations
What interests me about the Thom Browne collection is how firmly it begins with a dress code — and how freely it moves within it.
There is a sense of order to everything. A familiar language is established, repeated, almost insisted upon. But within that structure, the looks are allowed to become increasingly expressive.
What could feel strict becomes playful. What begins with formality opens itself to decoration, without ever losing its precision.
Perhaps that is what makes rules interesting. Not the idea of following them, but having a language strong enough to know exactly where it can be disrupted.
There is no need to abandon the familiar in order to create something new. Sometimes it is the smallest shift within an established code that makes us look again.
Thom Browne · Spring 2027 Menswear
Images via @thombrowne
© SHERIFF • PROJECTS
KIMHĒKIM
FEMININITY, STRUCTURED
Editorial Notes · Fashion Observations
What interests me about KIMHĒKIM is the way féminité is reconstructed.
Pearls, satin and softness are all familiar codes of feminine dressing. Here, they are enlarged, multiplied, embroidered into the clothes themselves.
The fabric holds the body. Pearls interrupt the surface. Proportions become exaggerated and sculptural. Traditionally delicate codes begin to feel architectural.
Féminité doesn’t disappear. It takes up more space — to breathe, to feel, to live.
KIMHĒKIM FW26
Photography · Maria Chekhovska
Images via @maison_kimhekim